CIUDAD JUÁREZ, Mexico — The short trek from danger to calm starts before dawn. First, there is the grind of a turnstile — total cost: 3 pesos, or 25 cents — then thousands of legs push forward, broomlike, onto the Paso del Norte bridge and away from Ciudad Juárez. It takes about 250 long strides to reach the middle, where the United States begins and the view changes slightly: a large billboard advertising Bud Light, in Spanish, practically blots out the sun. Most of the 14,000 people here who cross over the Rio Grande daily seem to barely notice. This mound of a bridge, which American officials estimate to be the busiest of all cross-border footpaths between Mexico and the United States

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